The Caribbean
BONAIRE
Diver's paradise in the southern Caribbean
Season: Year-round diving
Visibility: 20-35m/65-115ft
Water Temperature: 26-30°C/79-86°F
Stove-pipe sponges make excellent subjects for the photographer. (Martin Edge)
Shore based resorts:
Captain Dons Habitat
Buddy Dive Resort
Divi Flamingo Beach Resort
Sand Dollar
Diving: House reef, walls, coral gardens, Critter diving, shore diving
Snorkeling opportunities available
Nitrox
Bonaire’s vehicle licence plates say it all: ‘Diver’s Paradise’ they proclaim! Its spectacular fringing reef of gloriously healthy coral teeming with prolific marine life, including a variety of most unusual, but easily discovered, marine creatures, makes Bonaire a prime diving destination. Some of the richest diving in the Caribbean, excellent weather, clear and warm waters, superb accommodation and food – it is easy to see why Bonaire has a reputation for excellence amongst well-travelled divers.
Just 50 miles north of Venezuela, 21 mile long Bonaire, together with the its uninhabited sister islet of Kleine Bonaire, is part of the Netherlands Antilles, a self-governing part of the Netherlands. Bonaire is seriously committed to preserving its marine heritage by making virtually the entire diving area a protected marine park with stringent rules for reef conservation. Animals that have been hunted to extinction on some other islands have been protected here for many years. There are dives sites that can only be reached by boat, but a great feature of Bonaire is that many of the best sites are accessible as shore dives, some starting only a few metres from the shoreline.
This fascinating, small, crescent-shaped island is quite different from most others in the Caribbean. Many of the visitors come to Bonaire to dive or to observe the wildlife. There are over 150 species of birds found among the inland lakes and lagoons and along the shoreline. The whole island and its surrounding water to a depth of 61 metres is a protected marine park where nothing may be removed or disturbed, and of course spearfishing has been banned for years. All boats use moorings to protect the coral. The processes of nature created this fascinating underwater world, but it is Bonaire’s serious commitment to conservation and the preservation of its marine life that allows it to remain special.
Several hundred marine species are found in the waters of Bonaire. Giant Caribbean anemones, ancient brain corals, the stinging fire coral and the beautiful and precious black coral grow in profusion. The constant temptation presented by angelfish, Frogfish, Tiger Groupers, butterflyfish and, if one is fortunate, even an elegant but shy seahorse clinging with its tail to a gorgonian makes it difficult for the fish watcher to know which way to turn. The sheer variety of invertebrates invites the diver to stop and spend some time in quiet study of the reef.
Bonaire is an excellent choice for the diver who wishes to take the family along with them. World class snorkeling on the reefs and excellent accommodation (including a very well organised children’s activity club) will mean the whole family can enjoy a Caribbean experience to remember!
Because of the variety of wildlife and the almost perfect conditions, Bonaire is an ideal choice for the marine photographer. Some say that Bonaire is probably the most prolific destination in the world for fish and macro photography and many dive sites have truly wonderful populations of fish and invertebrates which can be studied in just a few metres of water.
For photography enthusiasts, sheltered pool-like Bari Reef, just in front of Sand Dollar, will soon become an underwater studio. Peacock Flounders, parrotfish, Creole Wrasse and tiny damselfish and chromis patrol the reef. Frogfish and octopus are familiar visitors too. Elkhorn, fire and brain corals are found in the shallows and the slope of the reef holds star corals, purple sponges and azure vase sponges. Deeper still are plate corals and barrel sponges, and the reef ends at a sandy bottom which holds a colony of Garden Eels. At night snake eels and Spotted Morays search for food and harmless but large (up to 2.5 metres long!) Tarpon swoop into the beams of divers’ lights to snatch a meal of fish. Bari Reef is a splendid dive site for beginners, for those who need a little easy practice to regain their diving skills after an interval or for those who love to study reef life, simply watching and leaning about incredible underwater creatures. Find a sea anemone and wait quietly before placing your fingers gently close-by. A kind little cleaner shrimp is likely to pop out and give you a personal manicure!
The most famous dive on Bonaire is, without doubt, Town Pier in the centre of the waterfront at the island’s capital, Kralendijk. This amazing species-rich site makes an excellent dive during the day as the sunlight filters through the water illuminating the vibrant orange coral and the purple and yellow tube sponges that encrust the pillars of the pier. French and Queen Angelfish glide through the water, and both the delightfully elegant Spotted Drum and schools of grunts make this special place their home. At night, when the orange cup corals come into luxuriant bloom, tiny creatures emerge from their hiding places to search for food. Shy Longsnout Seahorses sway gently to and fro, whilst Trumpetfish try to persuade the diver that they are part of the pier’s superstructure. The slender white tentacles of the anemones reach out into the water and the occasional moray eel and sometimes Tarpon, attracted by the divers’ lights, are drawn here in the hopes of a meal.
Aptly named Something Special begins with a steep wall that falls to 24 metres. The wall, encrusted with sponge and coral is home to a large population of scorpionfish – masters of camouflage, they appear to be extensions of algae-covered rock as they rest motionless. Mating groups of beautiful Blue-spotted Cornetfish, some up to 2 metres in length, can occasionally be spotted in the deeper waters and individuals can sometimes be seen cruising above the sandy ocean bed. In the sandy bottom of the reef a delightful colony of Garden Eels peep out of their burrows, turning their heads into the prevailing current to catch passing plankton.
One of the most popular dives is the beautiful Forest, named for the luxuriant growth of black coral colonies. Located on the south side of Klein Bonaire, the mooring is in about seven metres of water on the edge of a narrow shelf. The shallow zone has much hard coral and abundant sea fans and gorgonians. The drop-off is a series of buttresses and gullies, some of which are sand-filled. At 15-20 metres there are many spectacular large elephant ear sponges. Divers should remember to bring dive lights, for within the many tube sponges dwell a superb array of splendid little fish. Do not be surprised at the sight of a diver ‘standing on his head’ with a light aimed down a tube sponge! The uncommon Marbled Grouper can be found here along with snappers and filefish.
Washington-Slagbaai National Park occupies much of the northern part of the island, with Mount Brandaris rising high above the sea. The secluded beaches are particularly stunning here, with caves (some still bearing ancient Amerindian inscriptions) and cliffs still waiting to be explored. Many of these beaches provide excellent shore dives and snorkeling opportunities. Wonderful panoramic views reward those willing to hike for short distances and the wild and rugged windward seashore is a delight to explore. Natural freshwater springs attract a host of superb tropical birds, lizards and iguanas. 4000 pairs of tall, slender, pink Greater Flamingos breed in Bonaire and some can always be found at the shallow lakes in the park. The south of the island, which is barely above sea level, is dotted with lagoons and mangroves and covered with aloes, cacti and low, maquis-like shrubs. Old slave huts are a stark reminder of the dreadful days when the salt-working slaves were forced to work long hours in the blazing sun and sleep in hot, cramped conditions. Mangroves thrive in the east of the island at Lac Bay, where those interested in seeing something different can snorkel in the shallows in search of unusual fish and stingless jellyfish. The capital, Kralendijk, can be strolled through in about 15 minutes.
SAND DOLLAR CONDOMINIUMS
Sand Dollar studios are spacious and comfortable and each one faces the ocean. Studios are fully air conditioned and the kitchens are equipped with a full-sized refrigerator, stove, dishwasher, microwave oven, coffee pot, blender and toaster plus dishes and cookware. The complex comprises studios, one, two and three bedroom condominiums. In addition to full size kitchens, dining and living areas, and roomy porches or balconies, the condos have colour cable televisions, in-room safe, and spacious bathrooms.
Studio condominiums have one bedroom, private bathroom, fully equipped kitchen, breakfast bar, spacious living room with dining area and a porch. The majority of studios are located on ground level or the first floor. Studios sleep a maximum of two adults and two children.
One bedroom condominiums have one queen size bed, private bathroom, fully equipped kitchen, breakfast bar, spacious living room and dining area and a porch or a balcony. One bedroom condominiums are available on both the ground level and on the second floor and can sleep a maximum of two adults and two children.
Two bedroom condominiums have one bedroom with one king size bed and a second bedroom with twin beds. For extra privacy there are two bathrooms and these studios also enjoy fully equipped kitchens with breakfast bar, spacious living room and dining area and porch or balcony. The two bedroom apartments come in a single level style (available on the ground level or second floor) or townhouse style. All townhouses have entrances on the second floor, where the kitchen and living/dining room are located. The bedrooms and main bathroom are located on the 3rd floor. There are no townhouses on the ground level. They can sleep a maximum of four adults and two children.
Three bedroom condominiums have one bedroom with a king size bed a second bedroom with a queen size bed and a third bedroom with two twin beds. Each bedroom has its own bathroom, fully equipped kitchen with breakfast bar, spacious living room and dining area and large porches or balconies. They can accommodate a maximum of six adults and two children.
Eddy’s Restaurant is conveniently located by the pool at Sand Dollar. A full American breakfast buffet is served daily from 0730 - 1000. Lunch is served daily from 1130 - 1430. Dinner is served from 1800 – 2200 and Chef Eddy cooks up an assortment of western dishes to appease those after dive hunger pangs nicely. The Pool Bar is open from 1100 - 2200 with Happy Hour from 1700 – 1900.
Divers staying at Sand Dollar must do a familiarization dive on the house reef as part of the orientation process before they can leave on their own to shore dive or go out on a dive boat. At Bonaire Dive & Adventure, located at the south end of the Sand Dollar property, this orientation is held daily at 9:30 am. Following completion of the orientation session and familiarization dive on Bari Reef, guests are free to shore dive or boat dive at their leisure.
Bonaire Dive & Adventure has built a drive-up air and Nitrox tank station that makes for easy loading and unloading for the days you spend shore diving around the island. In addition to the drive-up tank fill station, there is a second fill station right on the dive dock, along with convenient dive lockers and benches for gear set-up. Divers can enter the water to dive Bari Reef in one of three ways; a giant stride off the pier; by walking down a sturdy ladder; or entering the water gradually from the small sand beach area adjacent to the pier. Gear and camera rinse tanks and showers are also on the dock.
Boat diving is also available with Bonaire Dive & Adventure. The 36ft “Free at Last” holds a maximum of 15 divers, the 26ft “Sand Penny” a maximum of 10. This is a great way to access the sites generally not accessible from shore. Bonaire Dive & Adventures experienced operate boat dives three times daily, departing at 0900, 1100 and 1400 daily. Follow the guide or explore on your own, the choice is yours.
FLIGHTS: Example price: from about $503 return from Miami to Bonaire.
Warm, shallow water and sunshine mean that underwater photographers and snorkelers can enjoy Bonaire's great reefs (Martin Edge)